Burning Bright

In the heart of Modena, Italy, where the air is thick with the aromas of centuries-old traditions and modern perspectives alike, chef Jessica Rosval has carved her niche as the culinary visionary behind Al Gatto Verde at Casa Maria Luigia, Massimo Bottura and Lara Gilmore’s guesthouse nestled in the picture-perfect Modenese countryside. Born into a spirited Canadian family, Jessica’s childhood was filled with the lively chaos of her five siblings. The dinner table, the epicentre of familial connection, planted the seed of her passion for bringing people together through food. But, back then, little did she know that the rambunctious dinners of her childhood would serve as the foundation for her career in the culinary arts.

“I was born in Montréal, Canada, into a very big family. My childhood memories are of spending time causing a ruckus, being imaginative with my five sisters and brother, and being called in for dinner when the sun set. The dinner table was always the liveliest place, beautifully noisy and chaotic, where everyone would finally sit together and catch up. My happiest place growing up was sitting around the table with my family, and the idea that I could do that as a job, creating tables that brought people together for me, was a dream come true."

“At fifteen years old, I got my first after-school job as a hostess at an Italian restaurant near my house. I would go in at 17:00, seat guests at their tables, and sneak in snacks of bread and olive oil from the back kitchen. Standing there, watching the seeming chaos of the line but somehow also the order of it all made it one of the most fascinating things I had ever seen, and a world I knew I wanted to be a part of.”

Captivated by the kitchen’s commotion, with its seemingly disorderly yet organised dance, fueled Jessica’s fascination with the restaurant industry and marked the start of a journey that led her through culinary school, challenging kitchens, administrative roles and eventually, to the iconic Casa Maria Luigia in Modena, working alongside the renowned Massimo Bottura.

“I continued working in the Italian restaurant while I finished high school, and at eighteen years old, I started culinary school at Institut de Tourisme et d’Hôtellerie du Québec (ITHQ), where I studied French cuisine. After school, I would run to my kitchen job, where I was on the prep line, and I would clean endless amounts of shrimp, tuna and herbs. Not a glamorous job, but a necessary one.”

From cleaning crustaceans to a four-year stint navigating the avant-garde kitchen of chef Laurent Godbout in Montréal, Jessica continued her path as a professional chef, soaking up all the knowledge, skills and experience she could. Next, in an effort to diversify her expertise, Jessica took a brief hiatus from cooking to explore administrative roles in a modern hotel, gaining valuable insight into costing, event planning and human resources management. However, the lure of the kitchen soon pulled her back, this time to Whistler, British Columbia, as the Executive Sous-Chef at Bearfoot Bistro.

“In 2011, I moved to Whistler, British Columbia, and got back into the kitchen, this time as Executive Sous-Chef for Melissa Craig and her beautiful Pacific Northwest inspired cooking at the Bearfoot Bistro. It was here that we really did some crazy things. Dinners catered at the peak of a mountain only accessible by Catski, with no water or electricity. [Cooking for] ten-thousand-person events in Vancouver and grand opening parties for Cirque du Soleil, all the while running the fine-dining line at a restaurant known for tasting menus, champagne sabering and one of the world’s coldest vodka tasting rooms.”

A pivotal moment in Jessica’s career came in 2013 when she moved to Italy. A chance encounter with Massimo Bottura at Osteria Francescana led to a trial weekend that changed her life. From Chef de Partie to managing international events for the illustrious restaurant, Jessica quickly became an integral part of Bottura’s culinary empire.

“In 2013, I thought it would be my last chance to live outside the country, so I jumped at the opportunity to move to Italy when it arose. The plan was to travel around Europe, maybe get a small job along the way, discover the different lifestyles, and then be back in Canada within the year. After seven days in Italy, I went to eat at Osteria Francescana. That’s when I met Massimo at the table, and we started discussing his tasting menu, called Vieni in Italia con me (come to Italy with me). I was blown away at how much I had travelled and the emotions I had felt one dish after another. I asked Massimo if I could join the team, and he let me do a trial weekend. That two-day trial ended well, and I was hired as Capo Partita (Chef de Partie) of the starter station."

"After three years, I began managing the international events for the company, travelling to different corners of the world, setting up an Osteria Francescana for just a few days, and then tearing it down again until we got to the next city. I have been lucky to see so much of the world. In 2019, Casa Maria Luigia was opening, and as with most new projects, I knew I wanted to be a part of it. I took on the role of Head Chef."

"Now, Casa Maria Luigia is a very dynamic, multifaceted space. From our wood-fired Emilian breakfast menu and hyper-seasonal lunches to our iconic Francescana dishes served nightly from our open kitchen as a Chef’s Table experience, and finally, Al Gatto Verde, our newest addition, with its contemporary fire-cooked menu, Casa Maria Luigia keeps us on our toes."

Al Gatto Verde: The Power of the Flame

A space dedicated to celebrating the high temperatures and volatile nature of fire, Al Gatto Verde is all about returning to the basics of cooking. The kitchen revolves around the wood-burning oven, creating a feast of smoky flavours by merging diverse culinary techniques with the power of flames. The challenge is to elevate fire, and everything related to it — heat, smoke, grill — with the finest artisanal Italian ingredients.

“At Al Gatto Verde, we have gotten rid of so many comforts in the kitchen. This modern technology has always helped us execute dishes seamlessly over so many years, and we now heavily rely on the intense heat and unpredictability of fire. But by removing, we are adding."

“Luigi Ghirri, a famous Italian photographer, took photos of the thick fog in Emilia. He would state that by removing so many dimensions of the visual field, he was actually adding to the impact of the photograph by inspiring a certain curiosity about what was hidden beyond the fog or beyond the frame of the photograph. Monochromatic painters also argue that by removing colour, they entice more focus on technique and concept. In our kitchen, when we removed our comforts, our modern equipment, we added levels of flavour, texture and culinary techniques that we otherwise would have never discovered."

“We are free in a way we have never been before, and the concepts of our dishes really illustrate that childlike playfulness that I feel, mixed with a deep respect for the territory, and inspired by the experiences and travels from around the world.”

“We are free in a way we have never been before, and the concepts of our dishes really illustrate that childlike playfulness that I feel, mixed with a deep respect for the territory, and inspired by the experiences and travels from around the world. The cuisine at Al Gatto Verde is not defined, and I don’t think it ever should be; we like to say, ‘Anything can happen when the cat turns green.’ We are creating a new approach to fire cooking, one full of imagination and fun, while weaving it into the art of fine-dining service that our restaurant group is known for. Diners can expect a menu that is truly Italian in its ingredients but very international in its concepts. I have been travelling the world for the last decade, and I have had the incredible opportunity to meet so many incredible people and taste so many incredible foods."

“We tell these stories of travelling through life with open eyes and hearts through our dishes while imparting our signature smoky and fire-roasted flavours and textures. Montréal Lamb is a dish of flavours from my native city; Cotechino Sangue di Drago is a hyper-local dish for every ingredient used but conceptually comes from thousands of miles away. Arson Pasta is a dish inspired by Szechuan cuisine recreated with southern Italian ingredients."

“[ We use] all local producers, artisans and cheesemakers. It is so important in a small town like Modena to give back to the community and create this circle of support; they help us, and we help them. Plus, the local produce is amazing; there is no need to go anywhere else.”

Creativity and Connection

Jessica’s passion for the culinary arts stems from its multidimensional nature — a fusion of chemistry, nutrition, tradition and culture. Remaining creative and dedicated is a perpetual process for the chef, who approaches each day with open eyes and an open mind. Running a restaurant poses the risk of habitual monotony, and to overcome this, Jessica emphasises the need for continual inspiration from various sources — books, art, hobbies, or travel. Her goal is to create a kitchen culture that prioritises inspiration, happiness and love.

“I believe that the culinary arts are a form of expression that really encompasses so many interesting subjects. It’s chemistry, it’s nutrition, it’s traditions, and it’s territory. It’s art, history, culture. Food is one of the strongest tools that we have to unite and communicate."

“We have to always fight getting lost in the day-to-day routine. When we feel like we are losing inspiration or motivation, we have to look for ways to get inspired. We need to always keep something in our lives to feed our minds and our imaginations. A book about a totally unrelated subject, art, a hobby, a trip somewhere new. I am constantly going through every day with my eyes and mind open. You never know where the next flash of inspiration will come from.”

Much like her sources of inspiration, Jessica’s dishes take unexpected turns from conception to execution. Some ideas materialise instantly, while others require relentless experimentation, sometimes never even ending up on the menu. By conquering the fear of failure, Jessica encourages her team to embrace the creative process, understanding that beauty often emerges from perseverance.

“Some dishes come immediately, like a flash of a great idea, and you just know that it will work. Others, not so much. Sometimes, an idea sounds great but doesn’t work out, not the first, the second, or sometimes even the twentieth time. But this is the creative process, and we cannot be defeated by it. We need to overcome that feeling of defeat and try again and again and again. And once we find peace and beauty in that process, we will discover where it takes us."

“Massimo Bottura has been my chef, teacher and friend for the last decade and has taught me so much. One of the things he said to me right at the very beginning was, ‘Grow slowly, like a tree’, and this has become a great mantra. Especially today, we need to be patient with ourselves and really embrace this growing and developing process. We need to study our interests deeply, let ourselves make mistakes, and try again. We need to embrace the creative and learning process and let that be the beauty of life, not rushing to some finish line.”

A Legacy of Empowerment

Jessica also encourages this attitude amongst her kitchen brigade, endeavouring to foster a constructive and compassionate work environment. Her belief in each team member’s potential, dedication to their goals, and a respectful learning culture are essential aspects of her leadership — and this extends further than just her Casa Maria Luigia family. In 2020, together with Caroline Caporossi and Maria Assunta Loele, she co-founded a non-profit organisation, the Association for the Integration of Women (AIW), to establish job training programmes for migrant women in the community. In 2022, they opened Roots, a restaurant where these women are trained to become chefs, and opportunities for job placements within the industry are provided.

“We are working during an incredible time for this industry, where we have the chance to create healthy and supportive work environments in a profession that hasn’t always had it that way. I believe in every one of my team members. I want to know their goals, and I want to help them work towards them. I want to show the example by being respectful and patient with their learning processes. I want the women on my team to feel safe, and I want them to know that they won’t have to choose one day between their passion for cooking and having a family because I want to help create a kitchen culture where they can have both. I want to bring happiness and love back into professional kitchens.”

With a new year underway, Jessica hopes to continue to support those around her in 2024, while expanding Casa Maria Luigia and enjoying new gastronomic adventures. The goal is more travel, more experiences, and, above all, more fun in the dynamic world she’s created at Al Gatto Verde. As she continues to innovate, experiment, and, most importantly, spread joy through food, Jessica remains a beacon of inspiration for chefs and food enthusiasts alike, proving that in the world of culinary arts, the journey is as significant as the destination.